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Archive | Cooking with the Seasons (March 1998)

Wok This Way

by Colette Christian

I am passionate about Asian Cooking. It is my favorite cuisine to cook, eat, and teach. I haunt my local Chinatown at least once a week — and I never fail to find something new in my Chinatown travels. I am always amazed at the variety and balance of flavors. The ingredients never cease to intrigue me.

Most Asian dishes are low in fat and high in complex carbohydrates. Asian countries have some of the lowest rates of cancer and heart disease. This is part of the reason Asian cooking is becoming so popular in this country. Of course, a cuisine that balances five taste groups at one time must also be delicious. Best of all, Asian cooking is quick; most dishes can be assembled in the time it takes to cook a pot of rice.

My favorite piece of cooking equipment is my wok. It is a 14-inch carbon steel wok which is the perfect size for home cooking. Any larger, and the high heat will not distribute properly. If your wok doesn’t get hot enough, your food will steam rather then stir-fry. Don’t even bother with an electric wok; they cannot get hot enough to cook food properly. Also avoid woks with a non-stick coating, they do not brown properly and cannot stand high heat.

After using your wok, wipe it out and rinse with warm water. It must be stored thoroughly dry or it will rust. I place mine on a warm burner for a minute or two to completely dry. After it cools, I wipe it with a little peanut oil on a paper towel. Then it’s always seasoned and ready to use.

Many supermarkets are now stocking ethnic ingredients so it’s easy to have on hand the condiments you need. Here are the basics you need to stock your Asian pantry: Chinese chili sauce, unsweetened coconut milk, hoisin sauce, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, sesame oil, oyster sauce, peanut oil, pale dry sherry, and plum sauce. Some good brands to look for are Koon Chun, Pearl Ridge, and Kadoya. These ingredients last indefinitely and cost only a few dollars. Once that is accomplished dinner is a few short minutes away.

Avoid "lite" products. If you are concerned about sodium, it is better to reduce the quantity of soy sauce in a recipe rather then use low-sodium brands that have absolutely no taste. If you wish to lighten coconut milk, which is relatively high in fat, simply dilute with water.

From the produce section you need ginger, garlic, and scallions. These three key ingredients are often referred to as "aromatics."

The most important thing to remember with stir-frying is that you must cut and assemble all your ingredients before you start cooking. This means you start cooking after vegetables are cut, garlic and ginger are minced, your sauce assembled, and your cornstarch mixture is also standing by. Once you start cooking, there is no turning back to chop, mince, or slice anything. I group my ingredients in their cooking order, putting everything in bowls or ramekins. Ingredients that are destined to hit the wok at the same time share the same container. Chopping, mincing, and assembling your ingredients is the most time consuming part of this cooking process.

Now with your pantry stocked and your ingredients assembled, you are ready to step up to the wok. First, heat your wok over high heat for about 10-20 seconds, then add your oil in a thin stream around the perimeter of your wok so that it coats the sides and the bottom. Next add your ginger and garlic. These you stir constantly until you can smell them, then add the next ingredients. Whenever an ingredient changes color, proceed to the next step, for example, when stir-fried meat loses its raw color or when stir-fried vegetables brighten. Always keep tossing and stirring the ingredients around the wok. Heat is the most intense at the center and the sides are a few degrees cooler. Toward the end, add the sauce, and when it comes to a boil, add a little of the cornstarch and water mixture. A little cornstarch and water go a long way. Once the sauce has thickened slightly and glazes the rest of the ingredients you are ready to turn it out of the wok and serve.

Here are two delicious vegetable recipes that will inspire you to stir-fry. It’s easy to "wok this way."

Thai Inspired Stir-fried Vegetables
2 Tbls minced garlic
2 Tbls minced ginger
3 green onions, cut into two-inch lengths
1 red or green pepper, seeded and cut into one-inch squares
1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
1 carrot, cut into thin rounds
1/2 cup fresh bean sprouts
3 Tbls peanuts or pine nuts
peanut oil for stir-frying

Sauce: Combine in a small bowl or glass measuring cup: two tablespoons dry sherry, two tablespoons light soy, two tablespoons vegetable or chicken stock, one teaspoon red wine vinegar, one teaspoon sesame oil, one-half teaspoon Chinese chili sauce.

In a separate bowl: one tablespoon cornstarch mixed with two tablespoons water.

At the wok: Heat wok over high heat; add a thin stream of oil. Add garlic and ginger, stir-fry for 15-20 seconds. Add green onion, peppers, mushrooms and carrots. Stir-fry until the vegetables brighten and the mushrooms soften. Add the bean sprouts and peanuts, stir-fry a few seconds more.

Add sauce and when sauce comes to a boil, add a little of the cornstarch mixture. Toss the vegetables evenly to glaze them in the sauce. Remove from heat and serve with steamed jasmine rice.

Broccoli and Tofu in Oyster Sauce

3-4 cups broccoli, cut into flowerets. The stems can be trimmed, peeled, and cut into thin rounds.
1/2 pound fresh firm bean curd
3 green onion tops, sliced on a diagonal
3 Tbls chopped cilantro
1 Tbls minced garlic
2 tsps ginger, minced
3 scallions, white part only, minced
peanut oil for stir-frying

Sauce: Combine in a small bowl: one-half cup vegetable stock, three tablespoons oyster sauce, one tablespoon dry sherry, two teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon soy sauce, one teaspoon sesame oil, one and one-half teaspoons cornstarch.

At the wok: Heat the wok over high heat and add a thin stream of peanut oil. Add the garlic, ginger and scallions. Stir-fry until fragrant, about 15-20 seconds. Add the bean curd and green onion tops to the wok. Add the sauce, whisking to prevent lumps. Add broccoli. Cover the wok and steam cook the bean curd for 30 seconds. Sprinkle in the chopped cilantro and gently turn the tofu over until the sauce thickens and glazes all the ingredients.