March 1999 | Cooking with the Seasons
Irish Eats are Green
by Colette Christian
Saint Patrick’s Day is one of my favorite holidays. I am part Irish and have always enjoyed getting fully into the spirit — easy to do in Chicago, where everyone is Irish on March 17. I pull out my favorite (and comfortable) Kelly green knit dress, toss a colorful scarf around my neck and meet the world in the true spirit of the day! I envision myself preparing a fabulous meal in the cavernous kitchen of some great stone country house on the coast of Ireland and feeding all my family and friends some delicious local game freshly bagged, tasty and authentic.
The holiday celebrates the feast day of Saint Patrick, who was born around 389 A.D. Saint Patrick is credited with driving the snakes out of Ireland (this part is heresy and not based on fact) and bringing Ireland to Christianity. According to a learned parishioner in my small congregation at our church, Saint Patrick really got around! He was born in England (thus not really Irish at all), was captured by pirates at one point, and eventually landed in Ireland to spread the word of Christianity to the Irish folks.
One can only imagine what was served at those early Saint Patrick’s day feasts. Though not a scholar of early Celtic cuisine, I know the ubiquitous corned beef and cabbage came much later. The early Celts probably cooked up some root vegetables and early spring greens. A vegetarian menu for Saint Patrick’s Day may be more authentic then the usual present day holiday fare.
At work this St. Patrick’s Day, I will be cooking not beef, but lots of delicious vegetables. I’m taking my new Celtic Moods CD and plan on once again enjoying this early spring festival so deeply rooted in history and authenticity. Good Eating to All!
Irish Lasagna
Serves six
3 pounds red potatoes, scrubbed, unpeeled and thinly sliced
2 ten-ounce packages frozen spinach, cooked and drained (you can also use 2 bags of fresh spinach)
3 cups tomato sauce (recipe follows) or use a good quality prepared pasta sauce
1 cup pesto
1 pound container ricotta cheese
8 ounces of mozzarella, sliced
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly oil a 13- x 9-inch pan.
2. Steam the potatoes for ten minutes or until barely tender.
3. Layer half the potatoes in baking pan, season with salt and fresh ground black pepper.
4. Add half the tomato sauce, all the spinach, pesto, the ricotta, and half the mozzarella. Repeat with another layer of potatoes, remaining sauce, and mozzarella cheese, and all the Parmesan.
5. Bake covered for 25 minutes in 375 degree oven, uncover, and bake for an additional 15 minutes, until the top is starting to brown.
Red Sauce for Lasagna
1 small onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon dried basil or 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh in season
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 28 oz. can crushed tomatoes
3 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
fresh ground black pepper
1. Sauté onion and garlic in olive oil over medium heat until softened. Add herbs, tomatoes, paste, bay leaf, and salt and pepper. Simmer for 15-20 minutes. Adjust seasonings. May be made a day ahead.
Colcannon
Colcannon is a traditional Irish dish. It is usually served at Halloween and symbols of good fortune are placed within its whipped mound. However, the white and green colors of this dish make it perfect for Saint Patrick’s Day. Serves six.
1 pound kale, washed, trimmed and blanched until tender
1-1/2 lbs. potatoes, boiled in salted water until tender
4 Tablespoons of butter or olive oil
1-1/2 cups chopped onion
1/2-3/4 cups milk
1. Heat butter or olive oil in a large sauté pan, add the onions and cook until soft. Add the kale and sauté over high heat to remove any excess moisture. Season with salt and fresh-ground black pepper.
2. Drain and mash the potatoes. Whip in the kale and onion mixture. Beat in the milk until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Adjust seasonings and serve.
Irish Soda Bread
Makes 2 round loaves.
4 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter, cut into cubes
1 egg
1-1/4 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup raisins
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, baking soda and sugar.
2. Cut in butter with a pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
3. In a separate bowl beat together egg and buttermilk, stir into dry ingredients until blended.
4. Turn out onto a floured board and knead until smooth (two to three minutes).
5. Divide dough in half and form into a round loaf. Loaves can be placed on a lightly greased cookie sheet or put into a greased pie plate.
6. Cut a half-inch cross into the top of each loaf.
7. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until golden brown.
Tipsy Whiskey Carrots
These are potent but very tasty. Serves four to six.
3 Tablespoons butter
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into diagonal slices
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup Irish Whiskey
salt and fresh ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons chopped parsley
1. In a heavy sauté pan, melt butter, add carrots and sugar, and stir the carrots until they are coated in the butter.
2. Add the water and the whiskey, bring the mixture to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer the carrots until tender. Remove lid and simmer for a few minutes longer until the liquid is evaporated. Season with salt and fresh-ground pepper. Garnish with chopped parsley.
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