December 2001
Breaking Winter Trails in Chicago
by Tom Judge
Many Chicagoans dread winter, a time of slush and spoiled schedules, freezing temperatures, howling winds, bone-chilling cold, and cabin fever. But since we have to endure all these things, anyway, why not take advantage of some of the benefits winter brings along with all its discomforts?
To me, the very best way to get some enjoyment out of winter is to go cross-country skiing. The local terrain is naturally suited for it. You don’t have to go very far to find a place to do it. You don’t have to spend a fortune to outfit yourself in clothing or in equipment. It’s easy to learn. And it’s one of the best forms of aerobic, full-body exercise known.
Cross-country skiing originated in the Scandinavian countries, which is why it is also known as Nordic skiing. Nordic skiing dates back thousands of years while Alpine, or downhill, skiing didn’t really get started until the twentieth century. Still it remained virtually unknown in the U.S. until the early 1970s. Many immigrants from Scandinavia brought their traditions with them and slid around on skinny skis, but Americans thought of downhill as the definition of skiing. In the 1970s, however, when the Baby Boom generation entered its mid-twenties, Nordic skiing experienced its own boom. Enthusiasts found its self-propelled, minimal equipment and its outdoorsy nature appealing. Soon, everywhere you looked, people were gliding along on skinny skis, uphill and down, and across the flat Midwestern prairies.
Alpine skiing still has its own appeal. In fact, if you’re looking for fashionable clothes, expensive high-tech equipment, and a resort lifestyle, Alpine skiing is for you. But if you’d like to get out without a long drive, avoid crowds, ignore fashion, and get some outdoor exercise in the middle of winter, then Nordic skiing is the way to go.
Dressing for success
Even within the world of Nordic skiing, however, there is such a thing as dressing appropriately. That’s because cross-country skiing burns a tremendous amount of energy. Even on the coldest days, you will generate a lot of heat as you move along. In fact, you’ll probably sweat. So when you dress for cross-country, you’re trying to meet two conflicting goals: keeping warm, and dissipating body heat. So you can’t dress as if you’re going to be sitting in one place for hours. You’ll get too hot. And you can’t dress like Alpine skiers, who need warmer clothing for the long rides up in the chair lift. What you need are layers, and clothing that will keep you warm when wet.
Don’t even think about wearing a snowmobile suit. I’ve seen people out on the trails in these outfits. They always have red faces and look very unhappy. These suits are designed to keep you warm when you’re whizzing across the countryside on a snowmobile. They’re far too bulky and warm for skiers trying to make their way down a trail.
I don’t wear much goose down, either. A vest can serve, if it’s really cold, but an Alpine skier’s down parka would be too warm. Besides, down is useless for insulation if it gets wet. More serviceable are many lighter layers that will keep you comfortable and that you can remove if you get too warm. (I wear a warmer coat on my way to wherever I’m skiing, then leave it in the car.)
For the actual skiing, underlayers are important. Start with long johns and a close-fitting long-sleeve top, both preferably of polypro or some other material that’s warm when wet. Polypro briefs are better than cotton, too. Cross-country racers even wear fish-net undershirts that help get rid of body heat, but retain enough warmth for comfort. Long knicker socks will keep your feet warm even if they get wet with snow or sweat. Get socks with a wicking action that move the moisture away from your feet. Again, I wear my regular winter shoes in the car, then change into ski boots at the trailhead. That way, if feet sweat in the warmth of the car, the boots will still be dry when you start skiing. Most skiers also invest in a pair of gaiters to keep their ankles and calves dry.
Wool pants or knickers and a wool shirt or sweater will keep you warm, even if you get wet. Top it with a windproof outer layer. I don’t use a scarf, but some skiers do. If you wear one, though, tuck it in so it doesn’t get caught on things as you move down the trail. You can lose up to 90 percent of your body heat through an uncovered head, so wear a close-fitting cap that also covers your ears. For your hands, mittens work better than gloves. Layering works well here, too. I have a pair of mittens with a wool inner layer for warmth and a leather outer layer for protection.
Avoid cotton as much as you can. Wool and polypro may feel clammy and smell like a wet dog when they get damp, but they retain body heat nicely. Cotton jeans get wet and stay wet. Here in Chicago, that would probably only make you uncomfortable, but under more primitive conditions, it might actually become dangerous. A friend told me about some folks who were doing research on a glacier. In their work building was a big sign that read "Cotton kills!"
Remember: until you get accustomed to skiing and know how much clothing you need, it’s better to err on the side of extra layers. You can always take them off and tie them around your waist if you get too warm.
Getting your skis
Cross-country skiing is made possible by the proper wax or pattern on the ski bottoms, which enables the skier to move forward without sliding back. Finding the right wax for the temperature and snow condition is part of the fun for me. But many modern cross-country skis have a pattern on the bottom that works like a fish’s scales and permits them to glide forward without sliding back. You still need to do some waxing to protect the bottoms, of course. Ask for help at a retail or rental outlet where knowledgeable people are on staff.
An informal survey turned up several Chicago-area retailers who will be renting or selling this year; some outlets do both. Eastern Mountain Sports near North and Sheffield plans to rent equipment but not sell it this year. Down the street at the Erewhon shop at 1800 N. Clybourn, I was told they would be selling but probably not renting. Viking Ski Shop on Fullerton near Kimball will sell cross-country equipment, but they weren’t sure about renting this season. REI will both rent and sell cross-country gear this season — at the Oakbrook Terrace store, but not the Niles facility.
Retail outlets aren’t the only places to rent skis, however. Camp Sagawau, (part of the Forest Preserve District) on Route 83 in southwestern Cook County rents skis, and other forest preserve or state park facilities may also have rentals. Moraine Hills State Park near McHenry, a beautiful facility for cross-country skiing, once had rentals and may do so again this season. Call to check.
Wherever you go, remember that when it comes to cross-country skiing, experienced and knowledgeable advice is much more important than pricey equipment. Make sure that the sales rep or rental person you deal with knows the sport.
Learning the basics
Because cross-country skiing is based on walking, it’s much easier to learn than Alpine skiing. You can go out and have fun with no lessons whatsoever. And the basics are easy to learn. For example, if you head downhill and begin going too fast, you can just sit down to the side of your skis and slow to a stop. If you miss and sit on the tails of your skis, you’re going for a ride, but even then you can stop just by sliding off to one side or the other. In any case, it’s no crime to take off your skis and walk up or down a hill that’s beyond your ability. Just walk off to the side of the trail so you don’t mess up the tracks.
As in any sport, however, cross-country skiing is safer and more fun if you learn the fundamentals, including how to move straight ahead, turn right or left, or stop with six or seven feet of lumber on your feet. Some people start out simply by reading a book or asking a friend to show them the ropes. Others begin by experimenting in a local park, then expanding their range as their skills expand. Still others choose a more formal learning method. Some ski areas offer on-the-spot instruction.
Camp Sagawau, for example, will hold beginner lessons every Saturday and Sunday morning from January 5 through February 24 (except January 6), starting promptly at 9:30 am. Cost is $10. In addition, the facility is offering indoor seminars in December, waxing clinics, and advanced beginner and intermediate advanced lessons. The phone number is 630-257-3045.
Where to go
An experienced cross-country skiier can cover a lot of ground. In part, that’s because the bindings on Nordic skis attach your feet to the skis only at the toe. It’s natural for the heel on your back foot to come up whenever you take a step. With that kind of natural motion, ski racers in the Olympics cover fifty kilometers. That’s more miles than in a marathon. So after you gain some experience and skill, you’ll want some space in which to glide.
When you’re first learning to ski, a local park or golf course is fine. I see lots of people skiing through Lincoln Park in the winter. (If there’s not much snow, be careful; frozen ground can be awfully hard if you fall on it.) But after you gain a little more experience and skill, you’ll want to try some of the forest preserve trails. Moraine Hills, mentioned earlier, has some very nice trails. So do the Indiana Dunes in both the state park and the national lakeshore. Because of local weather patterns, the Dunes area often has snow when the ground is bare in Chicago. Sometimes you can find snow at Warren Dunes State Park in Michigan when other local areas have none.
Palos Forest Preserve west on 95th Street has some excellent trails, but the hills there call for some experience and skill. Camp Sagawau, mentioned above, has ski trails as well. A little further afield, Kettle Moraine State Park south of Milwaukee offers good cross-country skiing. Petrifying Springs County Park near Kenosha also has good trails.
If you really get into the sport, you can enjoy a full vacation in places such as Lone Mountain Guest Ranch in Montana, which specialize in cross-country skiing.
Cross-country is a safe sport and causes few broken bones or other injuries. But you can’t take things for granted. Dress properly, use the proper equipment, learn the proper way to do things, and never ski beyond your ability. Do that and you can enjoy this healthy, outdoor activity, and get some real benefits out of our Chicago winters.
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