Conscious Choice: Of Carrots and Carotenes

July 2002 | Cooking with the Seasons

Of Carrots and Carotenes

by Terra Brockman

"Eat your carrots! They’re good for your eyes!" Who has not heard this from an anxious mother?

Well, carrots are certainly good for you — with a whopping dose of vitamin A (about 8,000 units per carrot) and lots of beta-carotene and other antioxidants that can help prevent cancer (more on those cancer-fighting carotenes in a moment). Carrots are also packed with potassium, calcium, and phosphorus, which help keep bones, nerves, and muscles functioning well.

But the ocular claim is dubious. According to Jane Grigson, an English cookbook writer, we may have been misinformed as part of the war effort. She says that during World War II, in order to encourage the consumption of carrots, one of the few foodstuffs not in short supply, the British authorities spread the rumor that night fighter pilots consumed vast quantities of carrots to enable them to see in the dark. And from that propaganda, countless mothers on both sides of the Atlantic have implored countless children to eat their carrots.

Not All Carrots Are Created Equal

Today it is more often nutritionists and physicians who implore us to eat our carrots — not to enhance our vision but to enhance our general health. The carotenes in carrots and many other vegetables work their wonders by destroying oxygen free radicals. This antioxidant effect helps fight cancers, enhance immune response, and protect cells against UV radiation.

But when it comes to carotenes, not all carrots are created equal. One of the most widely overlooked factors behind variation in nutrient levels of vegetables and fruits is the variety, or cultivar, of the vegetable. Different cultivars of the same vegetable vary widely in the amount of nutrients they contain. Robert Shewfeld, a food scientist at the University of Georgia, reported that carotene levels in any given vegetable often vary by a factor of ten, depending on the cultivar.

As more and more studies show the importance to health of the vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals in food crops, seed companies are beginning to develop varieties with elevated levels of vitamins and minerals. One variety of carrot with elevated beta-carotene levels is Sugarsnax. But you will not find Sugarsnax on the shelf in your grocery store, either in the conventional aisle or the certified organic aisle, because they are not as productive or as pretty as mainstream commercial varieties. A variety like Sugarsnax never makes it onto commercial growers’ seed order list because what matters to commercial growers is raising carrots that are highly productive; look great; are of a consistent size, shape, and color; and can be machine-harvested and shipped for thousands of miles. That is the reality of the wholesale market — whether it is the conventional or the certified organic wholesale market.

But a farmer who sells directly to the public through a CSA or a farmers’ market can grow varieties like Sugarsnax, which have been bred for higher nutritional content and greater flavor, because transportability and uniformity are not so important to the local farmer who direct-markets to consumers. Moreover, the farmer can inform the customers about why they should be buying that variety. This is a case where what’s good for you is also really good, because, as food scientists have shown, the most flavorful produce is also the most nutritious. If it tastes good, it is good. So get some great carrots, munch on them whole, or try them in a soup, salad, or even in pancakes.

Simplest Carrot Salad

3 large carrots, shredded (about 1-1/2 cups)
1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tablespoons finely chopped onion (optional)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice (or to taste)
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 Tablespoons chopped walnuts, lightly toasted

In a bowl, toss the carrots with oil. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well. Makes two servings.

Tunisian Carrot Salad

1-1/2 pounds carrots (6-7 large carrots), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
3 Tablespoons olive oil
2-1/4 teaspoons ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 cup water
3 Tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Bring about three cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add carrots and cook until crisp-tender, about six minutes. Drain well.

2. In a large heavy skillet over medium heat, stir oil, cumin, and cayenne until aromatic, about thirty seconds. Add the carrots, water, and vinegar. Simmer over medium heat until all the liquid is absorbed, stirring often, about five minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Remove from heat. Cool. Mix in cilantro or parsley. Makes four servings.

Beet and Carrot Pancakes

1-1/3 cups coarsely shredded peeled beets
1 cup coarsely shredded carrots
1 cup thinly sliced onion
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 Tablespoons olive oil

1. Place baking sheet into an oven preheated to 300 degrees F.

2. Combine beets, carrots, and onion in a large bowl. Mix in the egg, salt, and pepper. Add flour; stir to blend well.

3. Heat 1-1/2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Using one-third cup of the beet-and-carrot mixture for each pancake, drop four pancakes into the skillet. Flatten each into a three-inch round. Cook until brown, about four minutes per side.

4. Transfer pancakes to a baking sheet in a warm oven. Repeat with the remaining beet-and-carrot mixture, making four more pancakes. Serve pancakes with sour cream. Makes four servings.

Carrot Soup with Thyme and Fennel Seeds

1/4 cup butter
4 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup chopped onion
3/4 cup chopped leek
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (plus some for garnish)
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
5 cups (or more) chicken or vegetable broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Melt one-quarter cup butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the carrots, onion, leek, garlic, thyme, and fennel seeds; stir to coat. Cook, covered, until the onion is translucent, stirring occasionally, about fifteen minutes.

2. Add the broth and bring it to simmer. Cover partially; simmer until carrots are very tender, stirring occasionally, about twenty minutes. Cool slightly.

3. Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender. Return the mixture to the pan. Thin to desired consistency with more broth. Season with salt and pepper. Bring soup to simmer. Ladle into bowls. Sprinkle with additional thyme. Makes four to six servings.

Carrot Soup with Ginger and Lemon

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
1-1/2 cups chopped onion
1 Tablespoon finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1-1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
1-1/4 pounds medium carrots, peeled, chopped (about 3 cups)
2 tomatoes, seeded, chopped (about 1-1/3 cups)
1-1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
3 cups (or more) chicken stock or vegetable broth
2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 Tablespoons sour cream
1 small carrot, peeled and grated

1. Melt butter in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add onion; sauté four minutes. Add ginger and garlic; sauté two minutes. Add chopped carrots, tomatoes, and lemon peel; sauté one minute.

2. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover partially, and simmer until the carrots are very tender, about twenty minutes. Cool slightly.

3. Purée the soup in batches in a blender. Return the blended soup to the pot. Mix in lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Bring soup to a simmer, thinning with more stock if desired. Ladle into bowls. Top each with sour cream and grated carrot. Makes four servings.

Chilled Carrot Soup with Cumin and Lime

2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds carrots, peeled and chopped (about 5 cups)
2 large leeks, chopped (about 2 cups)
1 Tablespoon chopped garlic
3-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
6-1/2 cups (or more) chicken broth or vegetable broth
9 Tablespoons sour cream
2 Tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 Tablespoons grated lime peel

1. Heat the oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add carrots and leeks; sauté until the leeks begin to soften but not brown, about five minutes. Add garlic; sauté one minute. Add cumin and crushed red pepper; sauté thirty seconds longer.

2. Add the broth. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered until the vegetables are very tender, about twenty-five minutes.

3. Working in batches, purée soup in a blender until smooth. Transfer the blended soup to large bowl and cool. Whisk in six tablespoons of the sour cream. Cover the soup and chill at least four hours or overnight.

4. Stir lime juice into the soup. Thin the mixture with more broth, if desired. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle into six bowls. Spoon one-half Tablespoon of sour cream atop each serving. Sprinkle with cilantro and lime peel. Makes six servings.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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