April 2005 | Co-op America’s Living Green
Digging for Ethical Gems
Dear Co-op America, Thanks for your last column about ethical gold. How about telling us whether there’s such a thing as ethical diamonds?
— Also concerned in Chicago, IL
GREAT QUESTION — and yes, ethical options for diamonds and other gems are emerging.
Conventional gemstone mining can be hazardous to the health of workers and communities. Diamond miners often work in unsafe conditions, and dust from mines can cause respiratory diseases in workers and community residents. Mining of colored gemstones is generally done on a smaller scale than diamond mining, but still holds risks. According to the International Labour Organization (ilo), many small-scale miners receive low prices for their stones and thus are unable to invest in equipment that could prevent accidents.
In Angola, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Liberia, and Sierra Leone, profits from diamond sales have funded weapons purchases for armed opposition groups that perpetrate human rights abuses. In Burma, trade in rubies helps fund the abusive military junta that keeps democratically elected leader Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest.
The United Nations officially recognized the role of “conflict diamonds” in fueling and prolonging violent conflicts in some countries and urged the diamond industry to develop a global tracking system. In 2002, the diamond industry launched the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (www.kimberleyprocess.com), which requires countries exporting diamonds to ship them in tamper-proof containers along with certificates guaranteeing the packages are free of conflict diamonds. Countries receiving shipments must certify that they have not been tampered with.
Human rights groups have acknowledged the progress that the Kimberley Process has made, but urge participants to adopt independent auditing or verification to guard against the possibility of unscrupulous conflict-diamond traders finding loopholes in the system.
Brian Leber, president of Leber Jeweler Inc. (708-246-1455, www.leberjeweler.com), and Eric Braunwart, president of Columbia Gem House, Inc./Tri-Gem Designs (360-514-0569, www.fairtradegems.com), are working to get the colored gem industry to join the diamond industry in moving toward more sustainable practices.
Columbia Gem House’s extensive protocols include environmental protection, fair labor practices at the cutting and jewelry factories, and a tight chain of custody.
Some of Columbia’s gems are turned into jewelry at its Tri-Gem Design subsidiary, while others are sold to jewelry retailers such as Leber Jeweler Inc. and Sumiche Jewelry Co. (541-896-9841, www.sumiche.com).
For more responsible jewelry companies, consult Co-op America’s National Green Pages (see info below). Or, get your jewelry secondhand, or remake a piece of jewelry you already own. Also, let retailers know that you’re concerned about issues surrounding gemstone production, and ask whether they are addressing such concerns.
Living Green is brought to you by Co-op America, a DC-based nonprofit that provides green living, purchasing, and investing tips and resources. To join Co-op America and get a free copy of the National Green Pages™ directory of green businesses, contact 800/58-GREEN,
www.coopamerica.org. E-mail your Living Green questions.
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