Conscious Choice: The Art of the Table

January 2006 | Conscious Dining

The Art of the Table

By Janine MacLachlan

In days gone by, I’ve been known to insist on planning museum visits around meals, rather than the other way around. That’s not only because that’s what confirmed foodies do. I simply found it difficult to find sustenance of merit within the hallowed halls of these cultured places.

But somewhere along the way, art and food found a way to get together at museums. Art lovers and food lovers are richer for it. What is particularly delicious about this happy evolution is the focus on quality ingredients, as it seems many art establishments see a benefit to supporting sustainably produced and local foods.

I was first inspired to take a look at museum restaurants after visiting the Getty in Santa Monica, Calif., where the food and service rivaled any good restaurant. As someone accustomed to photographing my food (because I never know when it might be right to go back incognito to review a restaurant), I was dismayed at the end of the meal to realize I had enjoyed my Alaskan halibut so thoroughly that I came away only with a shot of my clean plate.

I checked out three local museums to see how Chicago measures up. I was delighted to attend a special luncheon at the Art Institute of Chicago and discover that The Garden Restaurant is run by the same management company as the Getty’s. When I see that a restaurant firm, in this case Bon Appetit, focuses on sustainability as part of its mission, I knew a substantial change had taken place. Typically it’s the independent restaurant with a maverick chef that takes the time to cultivate relationships with local growers.

At this special luncheon, part of a series showcasing celebrity chefs, we enjoyed pumpkin risotto drizzled with balsamic vinegar, followed by Alaska salmon on a plank with micro-greens, roasted onions and carrots. I always feel good ordering fish from Alaska. Its fishing industry is considered among the best-managed in the world. However, I was surprised to see tropical fruit as the featured dessert when the trees were practically groaning with apples at the time. The mango hadn’t reached that succulent creamy ripeness, so perhaps some poached Golden Russet apples would have been a preferred choice to complement the luscious macarpone cheese concoction poured over the top. But it’s a small criticism when the restaurant’s menu calls out those rock-star farms such as George Rasmussen’s Swan Creek, as well as Gunthorp and Crawford. I wanted a second helping of the butternut squash bisque with roasted pear and cinnamon crème frâiche, and was delighted to see the pumpkin risotto as an entrée. All in all, it’s a quiet respite from an artful experience, with a lovely view of the Art Institute courtyard.

Soundings, at the Shedd Aquarium, wins in the view category, with a sweeping panorama of Lake Michigan, and they also get kudos for taking their sustainability program beyond their walls. The Shedd spearheads the “Right Bite” program to educate people about how their seafood choices impact oceans, lakes and waterways, and as many as 40 fellow restaurants signed on for this year to help patrons understand the impact of irresponsible fishing. The Shedd also has downloadable wallet cards on the conservation area of its website to help refresh our memories about choices.

Veteran chef Ted Cizma, known as a fixture at the Green City Market during his days at Grace, was recruited to Soundings because of his reputation as someone who focuses on local and organic food, and the menu reflects his commitment to sustainability. Vegetarians will perk up when they notice they have several options, including a daily soup special like sweet potato with chili and lime, and a tofu club sandwich with organic sprouts and spicy pesto or ragout of wild mushrooms with organic polenta. This is the most kid-focused menu of the three and includes a grilled cheese and PB&J sandwiches.

At Puck’s at the MCA, it’s clear the Wolfgang Puck flair for presentation is at work. In keeping with what must be a good-view requirement for museum restaurants, we look out on a pretty park with Lake Michigan beyond. Diners are seated on high-style stainless steel chairs and are greeted with goat cheese nestled in green olive tapenade drizzled with olive oil, next to a sculptural tower of three kinds of bread, inspiring one and all to be grateful the low-carb craze is on the wane and we can enjoy bread again. Foot-tall salads floated by as I waited for my shitake and spinach pizza, with a great crust and nice dose of salty Parmesan. The menu features more salmon from Alaska, prepared Asian style. There’s a big burger and fries and lots of sandwiches and salads. Dessert includes some very tall layer cakes, and a crumble from farmers-market fruit that might have come from the plaza out front. The MCA is the site of a weekly farmers market every Tuesday during the growing season.

All in all, these restaurants are worth a visit even if you aren’t planning a day of viewing art. They might be the gems of the city that only visitors discover.

The Garden Restaurant, Art Institute of Chicago, 111 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago, 312-553-9675. Daily 11:30-3 p.m.

Soundings Restaurant, John G Shedd Aquarium, 1200 S. Lake Shore Drive, Chicago, 312-692-3277. Daily 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. in winter, and 11 a.m.-3 p.m. in summer.

Puck’s at the MCA, Museum of Contemporary Art, 220 E. Chicago Ave. Chicago, 312-397-4034. Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Tuesday 4:30-7:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; closed Monday.

Janine MacLachlan is a freelance writer, cooking-school owner and food enthusiast whose search for well-raised food is a passion.

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