Conscious Choice: Elysium in Bucktown: Milk and Honey Cafe

March 2008 | Conscious Dining

Elysium in Bucktown: Milk and Honey Cafe

By Tanya Fritz

I was surprised to find that not one of my Conscious Choice dining predecessors had yet reviewed Milk and Honey Café. It’s hardly a well-kept secret; it’s been a favorite Bucktown spot for years, and the loyal clientele shows up religiously for the baked goods, lunch and most especially for weekend brunch. On a recent snowy Sunday afternoon, a friend and I walked in at 1:45pm and immediately met a line of patrons patiently waiting for tables, even as the line stacked 20 people deep, right out the front door. We were both famished and discussed going down the street to another spot when she finally said, “No. I want to eat here. This place is great.” I happily concurred and voila, we were certified members of the Milk and Honey die-hard fan club.

The food at this bright cafe is healthy, homemade and, well, simply put: flavorful. One of my favorite dishes is the Huevos Rancheros, “casserole-style,” which is served in an individual crock pot and made with scrambled eggs, black beans, salsa and cheese. It’s warm and comforting and makes the café feel even more homey. Most people, however, come for the granola, which is all natural with no preservaties, artificial flavors, or colors — nothing but homemade healthy goodness. It’s so good in fact, that a few local retailers have picked it up, including Fox & Obel, Treasure Island and most recently Whole Foods. “They are a great development partner,” explains Carol Watson, founder and current owner of Milk and Honey Café. “The Whole Foods team is supportive, and they offer great feedback on how to keep it wholesome while I make it in larger quantities — more than just a few bags at a time.” Watson is coming out with three new flavors this month, including Blueberry-pecan, Chocolate-banana and Lowfat Cinnamon-raisin.

Last July, Watson opened the Milk and Honey Bakeshop at 1543 N. Damen, where they focus mainly on pastries for the grab-and-go folks in the the neighborhood. She likes that both venues are comfortable and casual and believes those qualities are what really draw the crowds. “Milk and Honey is a no-frills place with a good vibe. I really think people like the casual atmosphere,” Watson says. I think it’s not only the great atmosphere but the excellent food and surprisingly low prices. Two people can easily eat a full brunch for under $15. In addition to the Huevos Rancheros (only served on the weekends), a few breakfast favorites are the Orange Brioche French Toast with Toasted Almonds and Pure Maple Syrup; Panini with Scrambled Egg, Bacon, Cheddar and Tomato; Buttermilk-Granola Pancakes with Fruit du Jour; and Warm Oatmeal with Dried Cherries, Toasted Walnuts and Brown Sugar — each under $7!

This Bucktown favorite will undoubtedly continue to draw crowds of folks appreciating wholesome, healthy food in a warm and cozy café, and I’ll happily be one of the weekenders waiting in line, in the snow, for a table.

Milk and Honey Café, 1920 W. Division St., Chicago; 773-395-9434; milkandhoneycafe.com.

Tanya Fritz is a professionally trained chef, oenophile, slow-food fanatic and yoga enthusiast.

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