The availabilty of organic apples in your local supermarket is a fairly recent phenomenon. Sure, some dedicated health food stores have had a small offering in the past, but the product was often unattractive, insect-ridden and very expensive. The number of consumers was small — the number of growers, smaller.
But since 1990, the increase of organic produce consumption has been dramatic, doubling from $1 million in sales by 1994 and again in 1997. Industry trade magazines predict $8 billion in sales by the year 2000.
Why do we prefer organically grown apples? "Taste, health, and the environment," says Michael Soczek, marketing director for Organic Orchards of East Lansing, Michigan.
"Consumers are now aware that high-quality organic fruit is readily available, and that it is as attractive in appearance as conventionally grown fruit. Commercially grown apples are raised primarily for portability and appearance. Taste and nutrition are secondary. Organic produce is more flavorful and nutritious, without health risks or chemical contaminants."
To bring locally grown organic fruits to customers all year‘round, Soczek has entered a cooperative venture with The AppleWorks of Germantown, Wisconsin, and The Up North Company in East Lansing, Michigan. The group is currently in its second year as a mail-order business offering popular and heirloom apples in the form of samplers, gift-packs, and monthly club plans. State-of-the-art storage methods allow apples to maintain their freshness for months, with many varieties remaining fresh throughout the year.
So what makes an apple organic? "Completely eschewing the use of synthetic chemical pesticides, insecticides, and fertilizers," says Soczek. "The public is interested in a healthier, safer way of life, and [they] want assurance that the fresh fruit and produce they purchase is safe to eat. Organic or sustainable agriculture’s foremost principles are food safety and a healthy environment. How we care for our food and earth is how we care for our health, our children, and future generations."
In 1996, Michigan alone produced 725 million pounds of apples. Most were conventionally grown. In an industry that requires a grower to think 15 years ahead when establishing new plants and farming procedures, organic practices would seem the most viable if the industry predictions are correct. But current demands on the commercial grower make the switch extremely tricky. Land prices require ever more trees per acre, and organic pest control and soil maintenance are particulary difficult in a close environment. The move from chemical to organic practices, which require a chemical-free environment for three years, can leave an orchard in "limbo" for a number of years.
This is serious business among growers and buyers. "Whole Foods Market looked to Organic Orchards for local [organic] Gala apples this week," said Debbie Riemer, office manager of the Germantown, Wisconsin orchard, AppleWorks. "All we had were transitionals and we couldn’t sell them as organically grown apples even though they test very clean. They were under the three-year requirement."
The man responsible for following these strict specifications for Organic Orchards is Dennis Mackey, master organic horticulturist and director of the Germantown apple orchard. After 20 years of trial and error, Mackey has developed methods that use naturally occurring materials to fertilize the trees and control pests. His methods are used at all of the cooperative orchards — 2,400 acres between Wisconsin and Michigan.
These natural materials include seaweed and fish powders to establish early growth in the season and ensure next year’s crop. Chicken manure, applied after the harvest is complete, provides potassium for desirable fruit size. Humate, an ancient, decayed plant material, is a catalyst that helps the tree absorb more of the micro-nutrients from the soil and fertilizer. "All this brings out the wonderful taste of the fruit," says Mackey.
Pests are another problem. Mackey is a pioneer of organic horticulture in the Midwest, the most difficult region in the United States to practice organic farming. "This area is rich in pests that love apples as much as we do," laughs Riemer. The Family Farmer web site states that there are at least two dozen insects in Michigan that are attracted to apples. But, again Mackey finds ingenious ways to thwart the intruders. Neem Tree Oil (an antimicrobial from the Neem Tree of India) protects the wood from parasitic infestation. Pheromone sacs hanging from twist ties confuse some moths enough to send them flying pell mell away from their mates. Above all, Mackey is fastidious about pruning and tree inspection, a task that keeps him busy throughout the winter. All this special care makes the fruit exceptionally delicious. "[Chemically grown] apples have beauty that is only skin deep," remarks Reimer. "Organic apples have a beauty that goes down to the core."
To request a brochure or order organic apples, cider, gift samplers, and more, call toll-free 800-211-6240, Monday through Friday 9:00 am-5:00 pm EST. Fax your request anytime, 616-949-2812.