March 2000

Natural and Organic Deli Foods

by Meg McGowan

Gathering with friends and family is one of life’s great small pleasures. Some of the most gracious hosts and hostesses I know eschew perfection for the opportunity to entertain more frequently, allowing company to fit into the flow of their lives rather than altering the flow to occasionally accommodate company. For those of us striving to be more flexible, natural and organic deli foods offer a way to entertain spontaneously, while catering to guests with various food preferences or dietary restrictions and still serving food that is in alignment with your own values. In the Chicagoland area, choices abound for fresh, preservative-free prepared foods. To select the best — what else? — I threw a party!

From Whole Foods...

Carl Gartner, assistant prepared foods team leader at the North Avenue Whole Foods, suggested several possible menus for entertaining including: Spicy Macaroni and Cheese served with Asparagus Tomato Salad; Stuffed Portabello Mushrooms and Tomato Bisque; Mexican Chicken and Black Bean Quesadillas served with Southwest Black Beans; Artichoke Spinach Dip and One Potato Two Potato Soup; and Traditional Stir Fry with Tofu and Brown Rice served with a selection of sushi and salad from the salad bar with assorted dressings.

We sampled two soups from Whole Foods Market: One Potato Two Potato Soup and Tomato Bisque. One of my guests, Gretchen, particularly enjoyed the sophisticated taste, peppery zest, and lightly creamy consistency of the vegan potato soup, which was filled with bite-sized nuggets of diced potato. The vegetarian tomato bisque was a big hit with both children and adults. The kids, appreciating its familiarity, declared it, "Yummy, yum, yum," while adults savored the fresh tomato taste and subtle spices — basil, dill, thyme, and white pepper.

I loved the soulful, smoky, fennel-laced taste of the Mexican Chicken Quesadillas. Mark, however, found the seasonings too strong for his taste. He preferred the milder Black Bean Quesadillas, spiked with a shot of Louisiana hot sauce. The piquant flavor of the Oil-Free Southwest Black Bean Salad, smoothed with cilantro, created a complementary side dish. I served it warm but later found it was equally good cold.

The Spicy Macaroni and Cheese emerged from the oven like a magazine picture, complete with lots of hot, gooey cheese — Swiss, mozzarella, and parmesan. Beneath, the penne pasta remained nicely firm, not gluey. Jalapeño and cayenne pepper along with cumin and coriander added spiciness but not so much heat as to put off the children, who scarfed it up and asked for seconds. Stuffed Portabello Mushrooms provided the soul-satisfying experience of a good, dense stuffing, enjoyed without remorse. Jenny commented that it filled the gap between food from holidays past and her vegetarian present.

Traditional Stir Fry with Tofu Tempeh was my favorite deli dish from Whole Foods Market. While perhaps not the most exciting course, its subtle complexity of flavor and texture combined to make it a meal I could eat everyday for lunch without tiring of it. Nutty brown rice grounded the mild bite of stir-fried onions and peppers and balanced the rich, tangy marinade.

From Foodlife Market...

Foodlife Market offers an amazing array of to-go salads priced by the pound. Market chef Alissa McGowan (no relation) says that they strive to present only exceptional salads; good is not good enough. Other to-go options are available at the cold counter, the rotisserie, and the salad bar.

We sampled a number of salads from Foodlife Market. The Blue Cheese Potato Salad was an imaginative creation combining perfectly cooked wedges of red potato with blue cheese crumbles, chives, and celery in a mellow blue cheese dressing. Bridgette voted for topping it with freshly ground black pepper. If it weren’t for the name, Fennel Slaw, I would have puzzled to name the whisper of spice that gave the unique blend of cabbage, onion, and orange slices its depth. A classic Cheese Tortellini Salad in pesto was tossed with pine nuts, green beans, and sundried tomatoes. I prefer my pesto to be a bit more aggressive, but it was nice.

New salads are always being introduced and we sampled two — Spinach Kim Chee and Spicy Green Papaya Salad. The former was actually spicier than the latter, with wilted spinach complemented by the crunch of grated carrot, sesame seeds, cucumber, and Daikon radish, all immersed in a Korean red pepper/ginger/garlic dressing. The Spicy Green Papaya got its nip from Thai peppers tempered with palm sugar, dressing a salad of pressed green papaya, carrots, tomato, and Asian long beans. Chopped peanuts added a punctuating crunch. Both salads contained fish paste.

From the cold case, we tried the Eggless Egg Salad and the Sweet Potato Salad. The Eggless Egg Salad did a fine job of mimicking its namesake in appearance, texture, and flavor, enlivened with red pepper, green onion, and just the right edge of mustard. Jenny thought it was the best she’d ever tasted. The Sweet Potato Salad mixed the fresh roasted taste of corn cut from the cob, chunks of sweet potato and red pepper with thyme in a salad that called to mind memories of a summer cookout, as vivid as the warm colors of the ingredients. It was a unanimous opinion that this salad, served with a Tomato Mozzarella Sandwich from Corner Bakery, could chase away the worst case of end-of-the-winter blahs.

Foodlife offers soups as well. Their Creamless Tomato, made with soy and thickened with cauliflower, was appreciated by vegans and non-vegans alike, surpassing expectations in both taste and consistency. Turkey was almost beside the point in the Turkey Roasted Apple Soup. A butternut squash base set a subtle tone, consistent with the muted tartness of the roasted apples and underscored by the other vegetables and spices. "A peaceful sort of soup to warm you through and through," quipped Karen.

A stop by Sweet Life netted several sublime dessert options, including Pecan Squares reminiscent of pralines and Brownies that brought to mind the density and intensity of a flourless chocolate cake. The multi-layered Midnight Chocolate Layer Cake combined a thick spread of chocolate icing (rich, but not overly sweet), alternating between moist, dark cake.

From Wild Oats Market...

Wild Oats’ executive chef Juan Boras and assistant chef David Welch aim to serve prepared food that is equivalent to fine dining at a vegetarian restaurant. To that end, Chef Juan says, they prepare approximately 85 percent of their deli case selections on-site, using roughly 75 percent organic ingredients. Recipes are as fresh as the ingredients, and the menu is always changing as new dishes are created daily.

Sean liked the substantial spiral pasta in Wild Oats’ Pasta Primavera; not only did it hold up well in the salad, but it proved a satisfying noodle he could actually sink his teeth into. The herb-infused marinara sauce complemented rather than dominated the other ingredients, which included onions, corn, peas, mushrooms, and rosemary. The Roasted Corn Salad received rave reviews with a spiciness that spread slowly through the mouth like a delayed reaction, leaving a warmth barely one notch below a burn. Gretchen suggested that it would bring a quick zap of flavor to almost any meal, but would be a particularly great addition to a picnic or barbecue.

We tasted two very different tofu dishes. Peanut Tofu was very tasty, with a flavor similar to satay, but a coarser texture. Tofu with Pineapple & Green Chile married sweet, sour, and spicy in a delightful and innovative blend. The nicely balanced ratio of tofu to pineapple and chiles meant the last bite was as pleasurable as the first. In both selections the tofu was well-marinated, producing thoroughly flavorful bites.

Wild Oats carries a large selection of vegetarian and vegan pasta dishes that are ready to heat and serve. We tasted the Cheese Lasagna, which was exceptional. Rich, creamy ricotta and mozzarella tucked between thick noodles created the perfect foil for a thick, herbed tomato sauce. Beginning with a pasta entrée, it would be easy to build a quick, intimate dinner at Wild Oats. For appetizers, twelve kinds of olives are available at the Wild Olive Bar, and 250 cheeses are on sale from around the world. Wine suggestions to complement your favorite cheese are posted as well. Corner Bakery bread and a trip to the salad bar might round out the meal, and tiramisu made without hydrogenated oils or artificial ingredients would provide a grand finale.

From People’s Market...

Wild Oats is the parent company of People’s Market in Evanston, so some deli items, like the balsamic vinegar, pesto-dressed Mediterranean Wheatberry Orzo salad and tart, salty Greek Stuffed Grape Leaves can be found at both stores. One of the most popular items sampled was People’s Market’s Marinated Char-Broiled Portabello Mushrooms, which had a truly steak-like flavor. Though the Beef with Mushrooms in Mushroom Sauce was popular with the meat-eaters, the Char-Broiled Mushrooms were actually juicier and more savory. Mashed Potatoes and Broccoli with Butter provided a rich, understated accompaniment for both entrées.

From Sunrise Farm Market...

The deli section at Sunrise Farm Market has only been open since October 1999, but it has already developed some excellent recipes. Their Kung Pao Tofu was outstanding, a vibrant entree with a Szechwan sting and a warm peanut crunch. Even guests with less than adventurous palates could be seen scooping seconds of the Basmati Rice Salad. Disparate flavors — curry powder, raisins, lime juice, scallions, and red pepper — were applied with a light touch and harmonized with the white basmati rice. The smoothness of Black Bean Hummus slowly revealed the sharpness of garlic, jalapeño peppers, cumin, and chili powder, an intriguing effect that encouraged dipping just one more chip. Sunrise’s fresh salsa made a mild complement to the hummus. Oregano added an interesting note to an exceptionally nice blend of flavors.

All deli items are made on the premises at Sunrise Farm. Currently the store is sourcing as many organic ingredients as possible, but its goal is to be 100 percent organic. They also hope to expand their dessert offerings.

From Corner Bakery...

Freshness is the essence of Corner Bakery. Their sandwiches and salads make impromptu picnics a breeze, while their extensive selection of baked goods makes it easy to host a brunch or tea. The location at State and Cedar also features a rotisserie providing hot comfort food to go.

The salads change seasonally at Corner Bakery; we tasted three. Cranberries added just the right touch of pucker to Pecan Chicken Salad. Celery sliced diagonally gave it a crunch without strings. Large potato wedges and mustard in the Roasted Potato Salad dressing meant less mayonnaise and more flavor. Red onions and prosciutto echoed and expanded on the mustard’s piquancy. Red wine vinaigrette and basil invigorated the mellow blend of eggplant, peppers, and plum tomatoes in the Roasted Vegetable Salad.

The combination of honey mustard and olive tapanade made the Mediterranean Turkey sandwich memorable. Chicken Pesto, Corner Bakery’s most popular sandwich, is served on a baguette, simple to slice into finger-food size portions. Bridgette declared Tomato Mozzarella, "a breath of summer in a sandwich," featuring roasted red pepper, fresh mozzarella, tomato, and fresh basil. All sandwiches are served with pickle and chips in traditional deli style, except that the chips are homemade bakery chips sprinkled with parsley and parmesan cheese.

Corner Bakery chef and culinary trainer Jill Schmidt says the Cinnamon Creme Coffee Cake is tremendously popular around the holidays. It is easy to see why, as it brought to mind a treasured family recipe. Crusty cinnamon edges complemented an inner cinnamon swirl; the cake itself melted in my mouth. Just the thing to serve for Easter breakfast. Sugared Brioche Rolls made an elegant comfort food. Rich with a smooth, dense texture, topped with a dusting of granulated sugar, hiding a sugar-cube surprise tucked inside, they were like a cross between a bakery sugar cookie and a homemade yeasty sweet roll. The Raisin Pecan Bread was so stuffed with nuts and raisins it was amazing the dough could hold it all together. With Mini Bundt Cakes in chocolate and caramel banana and a loaf of Chocolate Cherry Bread, a sweet table would be complete.

When planning your guest list and your menu, consider that, as always, timing is everything. Chef Juan recommends that as these foods do not have preservatives they are best consumed immediately or at least within forty-eight hours of purchase.

Resources

Corner Bakery, State & Cedar, Chicago, IL; 312-787-1969

Foodlife Market, Water Tower Place, 835 N. Michigan Avenue, Chicago, IL; 312-335-3663

People’s Market, 111 Chicago Avenue, Evanston, IL; 847-475-9492

Sunrise Farm Market, 17650 Torrence Ave., Lansing, IL; 708-474-6166

Whole Foods Market, 1000 W. North Avenue, Chicago, IL; 312-587-0648

Wild Oats Community Market, 500 E. Ogden, Hinsdale, IL; 630-986-8500