If you’re an adherent of living as naturally and as healthfully as possible, I certainly won’t have to convince you that the best food for an infant is mother’s milk. Forty thousand years of human evolution and a huge body of research can attest to the fact that overall, breastfed children are more intelligent and heartier with fewer allergies and stronger immune systems than babies raised on formula.
But for many moms and dads committed to optimal nutrition for their babies, breastfeeding is simply not possible. Only about 64 percent of women in the United States breastfeed their babies immediately after birth. The number drops to 29 percent after six months. The reasons for not breastfeeding vary; for instance, the infant is adopted or mom has physiological complications (and dad simply can’t!). For whatever reason, I know there are untold numbers of parents anguishing over the alternatives to breast milk and despairing at the lack of viable options.
The conventional alternatives to mother’s milk are commercial infant formulas made with either cow’s milk or soy milk. The promotion of these is fueled by high-powered marketing campaigns of the formula makers who are in fierce competition for the business of new parents. Mom and/or dad are deluged with infant feeding formula information in hospitals, prenatal clinics, and doctors’ offices. And often, parents get a lopsided view of formulas as hospitals will do exclusive deals with one formula maker or forge alliances with pediatricians. In such cases, parents are sent home with starter kits of one particular brand intended to make them brand loyal. It’s a large market, one in which huge profits are at stake.
The advertising hoopla over infant formulas has all but drowned out the critics who caution against the use of both commercial cow- and soy-milk formulas. Many parents have opted to use soy milk even if the baby is not allergic to cow’s milk. Because of the media hype about soybeans, many parents simply feel soy formula is a better choice.
However, emerging research is causing second thoughts about soy in infant formula. The main problem appears to lie in components of soy called isoflavones. Isoflavones are plant chemicals that have estrogen-like hormonal effects on the body. You might have heard about this issue in connection with women who have had breast cancer or are genetically prone to it. They are often advised to avoid soy products as early studies have shown that isoflavones can stimulate the growth of cancer cells in breast tissue.
But, as far as babies go there’s very little clinical experience or research with human infants and phytoestrogens. The concern comes from seeing adverse effects of phytoestrogens in test animals. In these studies disorders that include thyroid disease, liver disease, and infertility have been linked to dietary intake of isoflavones. For babies, if soy-based formula is the predominant food, the intake of soy isoflavones is high.
Additionally, soybeans contain high levels of organic acids called phytates, which can block the body’s uptake of essential minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc. Researchers suspect that this can translate to a reduced rate of growth jeopardizing the development of the brain and nervous system.
Before you say "How could they unleash this on babies!" remember that this science is evolving and a significant number of well-conducted studies usually are needed to establish conclusions. As studies have not been done on babies, the connection in the scientific view is merely conjecture and considered ambiguous. Regardless, a number of scientists in this country and elsewhere have come out against soy-based infant formulas. One scientist, Dr. D. M. Sheehan, who’s been studying the matter, says that infants fed soy-based formulas have been placed at risk in a "large, uncontrolled and basically unmonitored human infant experiment." It’s estimated that 25 percent of babies in North America are fed soy-based formula.
As for cow’s milk, there has for years been controversy over its use as a healthful food and base for infant formula. Back in 1977, Dr. Frank A. Oski, a pediatrician with Johns Hopkins medical school and hospital, was one of the first to introduce to a mass audience —in his book Don’t Drink Your Milk — the potentially harmful allergies and sensitivities triggered by cow’s milk.
Most recently, Sally Fallon, a specialist in ethnic and modern diets, and Dr. Mary Enig, Ph.D., an expert in the field of lipid (fat) chemistry contend that the problems stemming from milk are a result of the pasteurization and homogenization processes. Using an array of scientific references, Fallon and Enig argue that, for one, pasteurization, a high heat process, is an outmoded system that "destroys enzymes, diminishes vitamin content, denatures fragile milk proteins, alters vitamin B12, destroys vitamin B6, kills beneficial bacteria, promotes pathogens, and is associated with allergies, increased tooth decay, colic in infants, growth problems in children, osteoporosis, arthritis, heart disease, and cancer."
The practice of heating milk to kill germs began in the 1920s to combat TB, infant diarrhea, and other diseases caused by unsanitary production methods. Fallon and Enig say that modern-day techniques will support a system of selling clean raw milk from certified healthy cows. They assure us that properly produced raw milk does not pose a danger to infants regardless of what "numerous public health propagandists may assert."
But raw milk is a difficult food to find on grocery shelves today. Only two states, Georgia and California, allow the retail sale of raw milk. Nonetheless, these researchers say, it’s worth tracking down since raw milk, coming from certified healthy pasture-fed Jersey or Guernsey cows, has the antibodies and enzymes that make it more digestible to babies and less likely to cause cramps, constipation, and allergies.
Where do we go from here? Fallon and Enig highly recommend making your own formula from scratch, which they say closely resembles the composition of mother’s milk. They have a recipe for a milk-based formula that uses certified clean raw cow’s milk or organic pasteurized but nonhomogenized milk (which you then culture to replace missing enzymes). Also offered is a meat-based formula that is made with organic liver. Fallon told me she interviewed a mother who follows their recipes and it takes her no longer than about five minutes to whip it up once all the ingredients are assembled.
If you’re intent on finding raw milk it may take a few phone calls but, as I discovered, it’s possible to find sources, usually local biodynamic farmers. (Fallon suggests calling your local Waldorf School for leads.) I found a farmer near Chicago who provides raw milk to numerous families. He gets around the raw milk law by "selling" the cow to his customers and providing them with the milk.
While I am a nutritionist, I am also an avid consumer advocate. This is why I bring these issues to your attention. It may not make me popular with my own professional association, the American Dietetic Association, which receives contributions from the United Soybean Board and the National Dairy Council. In spite of this, I prefer to share my knowledge and skills with those who intend to take responsibility for their health with alternative practices and prevention.
For complete formula recipes see Fallon and Enig’s book, Nourishing Traditions, second edition, 1999 (877-707-1776).
Disclaimer: This column is for information only and no part of its contents should be construed as medical advice, diagnosis, recommendation or endorsement by Ms. Ephraim.
Rebecca Ephraim is a registered dietitian, certified clinical nutritionist and a nutrition reporter specializing in integrative medicine issues.
© Rebecca Ephraim. All rights reserved.