"I was determined to know beans..."
— Henry David Thoreau
Food historians say that beans are among the oldest of New World foods, a staple for our hunter-gatherer ancestors over 12,000 years ago. So old Henry David was following in the footsteps of countless Native Americans (who probably knew beans better than he did) when he tended his bean patch at Walden Pond.
When Native Americans began planting crops (in addition to gathering wild fruits, roots, and greens), they often planted "the three sisters of life" — beans, corn, and squash — together in a hill. Lescarbot, a French explorer, noted in 1608 that "the Indians of Maine, like those of Virginia and Florida, plant their corn in hills, and between the kernels of corn they plant beans marked with various colors, which are very delicate: these, because they are not so high as the corn, grow very well among it."
The reason corn and beans grow so well together is that legumes, such as beans, have nitrogen-fixing bacteria on their root nodules. These bacteria form a symbiotic relationship with legumes and together they enrich the soil and act as a natural fertilizer. The "fixed" nitrogen is available for plants to absorb and use to form proteins, which can then travel through the food chain — to us, for example. Those indigenous people knew beans all right. But they bred them for different uses than we do today. Generally, they dried them and made bean flour. From the flour, they made dumplings and hearth breads.
When beans were brought to Europe, they were not viewed with suspicion (as the tomato was), but were instantly accepted because they were similar to an existing vegetable, the broad bean. The word haricot, which the French used for the newly arrived green bean, is actually a corruption of the Aztec word ayacotl.
There are many different varieties of beans in the genus Phaseolus (meaning a small, swift sailing boat). Seed Saver’s Exchange has more than 4,000 varieties in its collection. At farmers’ markets you can go far beyond the green and yellow wax beans of grocery stores. Try the tender, sweet Italian flat bean, the purple streaked yellow Dragon’s Tongue (a Dutch heirloom variety), and the long, slender French filet beans (haricots verts).
As one of our Midwestern summer staples, beans too often go unappreciated. But there is nothing like freshly picked beans — so tender and sweet that cooking is unnecessary. Eat them raw, as you would a carrot, or with a vegetable dip. If you do cook them, do it with a light hand, and don’t overdress them with butter or sauces. Let their wonderful natural flavours come through.
Beans with Lemon and Hazelnut
1/3 cup hazelnuts
1-1/2 pounds beans, any variety, trimmed and snapped into one- or two-inch lengths
1-2 Tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Begin by toasting the hazelnuts. Put them on a cookie sheet in a 350 degree F. oven for about ten minutes, or until they just begin to brown. Cool to room temperature and then chop fine — either with a knife or in a food processor.
2. In a kettle of boiling salted water, cook beans until just tender, three to five minutes.
3. When the beans are crisp-tender, drain them and run under cold water. In a large bowl, toss the beans with the oil, lemon zest, hazelnuts, and salt and pepper to taste.
Green and Yellow Bean Salad with Smoked Mozzarella
1 pound green beans, cut into two-inch lengths
1 pound yellow wax beans, cut into two-inch lengths
1/4 pound smoked mozzarella, cut into half-inch cubes
1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced
Dressing
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1/3 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Cook the beans in boiling salted water for about three minutes. Chill under cold water and drain.
2. In a large bowl, combine the beans with the cheese and tomato.
3. Whisk the dressing ingredients until well combined. Toss with the bean mixture and season with salt and pepper.
French Bean and Almond Soup
1 medium onion, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
3 Tablespoons butter
1 heaping Tablespoon flour
2 cups water or chicken stock
1 pound French filet beans (haricots verts)
1 teaspoon fresh chopped savory, marjoram, or other summer herb
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
A squeeze of lemon juice
2-3 ounces blanched almonds, split
1. Cook the onion and garlic gently in two tablespoons of the butter without browning. When they are soft, stir in the flour, then just over half the water or stock. Simmer a few minutes, then put in the beans, seasoning them with chopped fresh summer savory, marjoram, or another herb of your choice.
2. When the beans are just tender, purée the soup in a blender. Use the rest of the water or stock to dilute the soup to the desired consistency. Reheat, adding more seasoning to taste and a squeeze of lemon juice. Keep the soup just below the boiling point.
3. Sauté the almonds in the remaining tablespoon of butter, stirring them until nicely browned. Stir them into the soup with a little extra butter and serve immediately.
Green Beans Provençal
1 pound green beans, trimmed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped coarse
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 large tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup pitted Nicosia olives
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
2 Tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
1. Put beans in boiling salted water. Simmer until crisp-tender, about three minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water. Set aside.
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add the onion and garlic. Cook five minutes. Add the tomatoes and wine and cook for twenty minutes.
3. Toss in the olives and beans and heat through. Sprinkle with lemon juice and pepper and serve immediately.
Buttered Green Beans and Carrots
2 pounds beans, any variety, trimmed and cut into one- or two-inch lengths
6-8 carrots, cut into matchstick-size strips
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Cook beans in large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about four minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water.
2. Cook carrots in the same boiling water until crisp-tender, about one minute. Transfer carrots to ice water with the beans. Drain and pat vegetables dry.
3. Melt two tablespoons butter with two tablespoons olive oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add vegetables and toss until hot, about two minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Beans with Sweet Peppers and Almonds
1 cup sliced almonds
7 bell peppers, any color
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2-1/2 pounds haricots verts or regular green beans
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a baking pan in the middle of the oven, toast almonds in one layer for ten minutes, or until lightly colored.
2. Cut the bell peppers into two-inch-long strips. In a heavy skillet heat one tablespoon of the oil over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Cook half of the peppers, stirring frequently, until crisp-tender, about twelve minutes. Transfer cooked peppers to a serving bowl. Cook the remaining peppers in the remaining oil and transfer to a bowl.
3. Cook the beans in a large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about four minutes. Cool and drain. Add to the bowl and toss with peppers. Add salt and pepper to taste.
4. Just before serving, sprinkle toasted almonds on top of the peppers and beans.
Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.