Sometimes you just crave something wholesome and full of joy that makes you stand up and shout "Life is good." That’s why we applaud Andies, a Mediterranean restaurant specializing in Lebanese and Greek cuisine. Andies offers a civilized approach to dining, stressing openness, receptivity, and an almost imperceptible suaveness. When you step through the doors of this establishment at 5253 N. Clark, you’re instantly home. Or better yet, you can imagine you’re about to embark on a Mediterranean cruise departing from a Port named Andies.
In fact, Andy Tamras, Lebanese-American proprietor and chef, has been in the restaurant business for more than thirty years, building this venerable Andersonville establishment up from the original five table place with fireplace (which still burns though Andies has tripled in size). Today’s Andies opens like a sunbeam, an explosion of white walls, white tablecloths, white light. Andy has worked very hard to make Andies warm and embracing, exemplifying the feeling that "Work is love made visible," as expressed by Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran in The Prophet.
But make no mistake, Andy is not some sun-zapped Apollo chasing Daphne. This savvy restaurateur named his restaurant Andies — when his own name is Andy — in order "to do something a little different." He doesn’t mind competition either. "Without competition, the restaurant business would be boring," he says. Andy takes on all comers. He wishes other restaurateurs well. After all, you could call his neighborhood a metropolis of restaurants. Andy knows what it means to build a business with the sweat of his hands. He was seventeen when he journeyed to Chicago all by himself from Lebanon.
A maestro of geniality, Andy looks you straight in the eye as you speak. "Look at people with one eye" — which means see people from within — is his motto. Andy is always working on new recipes or tinkering with old ones or traveling — as did his progenitors, the ancient Phoenicians from whom the Lebanese descend. "I have to keep my eyes on the cooking," Andy adds. As they say in the business, you’re only as good as your last meal.
After all, he aims to cruise his diners around the Mediterranean — stopping in Lebanese, Greek, Tunisian, Moroccan, Italian, and French ports of call.
The first time we entered Andies, the waiter identified us as strangers. The second time he greeted us as old friends. But the real reason you want to go back to Andies is because the food is as comforting as the environment. Tasty dishes abound with vibrant colors and fresh herbs. A sprig of rosemary could adorn your lamb, a bouquet of basil your couscous, fresh mint your crème caramel. "It’s always good coming here," said a kid in a baseball cap as he left the restaurant during our last visit. "I’ve never had a bad meal at Andies," were the words of a stranger we met on a bus. You can’t pay for publicity like that. In fact, Andy is a bit hesitant about getting good notices. "I want my people to have a seat," he says. He’s always looking out for his regular customers.
Of course, the physical openness of the restaurant helps. Andies has whitewashed walls in some parts, mottled brick in others and a lovely ceramic floor the color of apricots, perhaps reminiscent of the fruit growing in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. There is light wood on the ceiling and light wood pillars too. "Is that cedar?" we wondered, thinking about the legendary Cedars of Lebanon, which created the wealth of the ancient Phoenicians.
On sitting down, a plate of warm fluffy pitas and green olives appeared, little presents to greet the stranger. Seated cozily by the fireplace, Stephen was not yet in the Mediterranean groove; he asked for a warming cup of sweet hot chocolate and got it. (Next time, we’ll try the Home-Made Glogg.) Next we embarked on an adventure in soup. The Lentil Soup was 100 percent vegetarian and so good we "zouped" it right down, spoon upon spoon. There were big pieces of carrot for color and crunch and a rich, compelling tomato base floating with whole lentils. As for the Avoglemono Soup, did we dare? After all, we’ve had too many Avoglemenos that were infused with out-of-whack lemonness, cornstarch disasters resembling old-time paste. But Andies’ version was delicate, very unusual, with a ricey texture and tiny shreds of tender chicken.
Next we approached the mezza — the Lebanese and Greek equivalents of French hors d’oeuvres, Spanish tapas, and Italian antipasto. We looked over a rainbow of vegetarian offerings including Baba Ganoush, Haressa, Tabouli, Spinach and Feta Pie. We eyed nonveggie appetizers such as Calamari Friti. We contemplated kibbee — the Lebanese national dish.
Instead, we chose one of four Vegetarian Combo Platters and got one Potato Chop, two Falafel, one Dolmah, and one Mediterranean Stuffed Artichoke Heart. We loved the crusty Potato Chop. Who wouldn’t savor a succulent mashed potato ball filled with sautéed eggplant and carrot? The spicy Falafel was rolled in tahini. The Artichoke Heart swam with cream sauce and spinach. In fact, every nibble was notable including the delectable Dolmah (the recipe came from Andy’s mother).
Talk about veggie party time and color. Talk about copious. Our Garden Vegetable Hummus came on a plate big as a Greek discos. A lake of chickpeas and tahini floated with gorgeous yellow and red pepper slices, julienned green zucchini, rosy tomatoes, earthy mushrooms, gleaming Kalamata olives, vibrant lemon, and sprightly parsley. (This hummus was so good, we’re still thinking about it.) Our lightly smoked grilled Eggplant Steak Fillet was dressed with caper sauce, served on deep nutty couscous with raisins and a hint of spice. The accompanying spinach was succulent and scrumptious. As for the sprig of rosemary, we accepted it, too, as another gift.
Eager to bring new discoveries to his restaurant, Andy travels a lot, mostly around the United States. He says he might have been the first to serve couscous in Chicago, thanks to a jaunt to New Orleans. But his Mediterranean Couscous is more than a travel trophy. Unlike any couscous we ever tasted, this dark majestic mound was heaped high as Mount Olympus. There were lovingly cut, big peels of tomato, tender carrots, sweet red peppers, warm onions, green peppers, cherry tomatoes, zucchini, chickpeas, and red onions. Crown this with fresh basil leaves and perfume it with Marinara sauce, and this tumble of colors ached to be painted.Still open to new adventures, we savored a tasty Moroccan Chicken with Apricots drizzled with apricot sauce and mounded with vegetables. The Halibut Steak — with curry sauce on the side — was very simple and wholesome, just like your mother makes under her broiler. (Boy, we loved that nice, crispy ribbon of skin.) In fact, Andies sports a full array of dishes — fresh seafood, chicken, lamb, and beef, not to mention pastas, combo plates, desserts, sandwiches, and a mighty weekend brunch — all designed to sail you around the Mediterranean.
We eyed Italian Gnocchi di Spinachi Con Ricotta, French Crème Carmel, Tunisian Fresh White Fish, Greek-style Skirt Steak, and Andy’s Lebanese Moussaka. Waiters held their plates high as we nibbled a Baklava unlike any we had ever had. It had a mysterious fruity flavor (thanks to orange water) and an almost masculine feeling, if foods can have gender. Then, we devoured a Lebanese Cheese Cake bathed in sumptuous syrup of dates. (It’s Andy’s favorite, and one of ours, too.)
Andies offers a dining journey that allows you to feel the meaning of their old saying "The food equals the affection."
Andies is located at 5253 N. Clark Street, Chicago, 773-784-8616. A second branch (we haven’t tried yet) is located at 1467 W. Montrose, 773-348-0654. Appetizers and soups run $3.50 to $6.95; entrées $9.00 to $15.95; sandwiches $4.95 to $7.95; and desserts $2.50 to $4.95. Andies is open seven days a week from 11:00 am to midnight. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm, with a jazz group on hand. Valentine’s Day dinner for two is $49.95, including appetizer, soup or salad, main course, coffee or tea with homemade heart-shaped dessert. An extensive take-out menu is available.
Stephen’s Five Ps
1. Palatability: Andies is far above the norm in palatability. We liked everything we tasted, but Andies really shines with vegetarian plates and combos. Desserts top off the meal perfectly.
2. Presentation: Andy has a wonderful flair for presenting food you can’t wait to eat. There is always something extra on the plate that entices you to dive in.
3. Portion Size: No one will ever leave Andies hungry due to the quantity or quality of food. The portions are very ample. You have the satisfaction of getting your money’s worth. You won’t need to stop at a fast-food place to fill up after a meal at Andies.
4. Price: Andies’ prices range from $2.50 to $15.95, which allows for most budgets and perhaps more than one trip to Andies per week.
5. Pleasure Quotient: Our pleasure quotient on a scale of 1 (no pleasure) to 10 (ultimate pleasure) taking in consideration food, ambiance, presentation, and service is 8.5 — definitely a most pleasurable evening.