Dinner at Tibet Cafe allows you to feast on yummy Tibetan momos (dumplings) while basking in friendship and compassion offered by chef/co-owner Sonam Dhargye. A radiant soul, Sonam speaks right to your heart, eager to tell you all about his food and his culture. "Our food is very simple. People come here to taste Tibetan food, to express their love for Tibet and for Tibetan tradition. They are coming here not only for food. They come here to support Tibet," he said.
Sonam was born in Tibet in 1958. "In 1959, we lost our whole country. We went with the Dalai Lama to India. At eight, I entered a monastery in India."
A highly acclaimed master of Tibetan chant, Sonam toured America for two months in 1985 with a group of fellow monks. Mickey Hart of the Grateful Dead met them and invited them back. In 1992, Sonam returned alone to learn English. "I stayed here. I lost my vows. I’m not a monk," he smiles. "I’m married. So then everything changed."
Anyone familiar with the wisdom of His Holiness the Fourteenth Dalai Lama — there are fifty books, twenty audio editions, and five video editions at Transitions Bookplace alone — cannot help but feel his special radiance and humanity, which provide the driving force behind Tibet Cafe. A picture of him hangs near intricate, delicate butter sculptures made by Sonam. "Butter sculpture celebrates the senses. We invite all the gods from the ten directions to celebrate with us."
Everything we ate on our recent trips to Tibet Cafe celebrated the senses with a mellow lushness — simple, yes, but with subtle inflections and delicious freshness. And there may be extra benefits! "I was a monk for more than twenty-five years and have done so many rituals. Before I cook, I pray to the Medicine Buddha. Whenever I make food, I do rituals and pray. I say many mantras to transform the food to‘nectar,’ which is medicine to help any kind of sickness. I am very proud of doing this," Sonam said. Since Tibetans believe every place has deities who must be appeased to assure prosperity, Tibetan monks bless the restaurant every few months. "They bless the place. They bless the stove. There is a god of fire — so many gods," Sonam explained.
We started with Dang Tsel, a simple shredded cabbage and carrot salad in a sesame dressing. "Were these vegetables grown in Tibet?" we inquired.
"Tibetans would use white radish instead of cabbage," Sonam told us. "We don’t have a lot of vegetables in Tibet."
"What kind of vegetables grow there?" we asked.
"I really don’t know," he replied.
After all, he was only a toddler when he left Tibet. "We were only six million people. They killed 1.6 million," he said. Today, due to the ongoing Chinese occupation, Tibetans are losing more than their land. They are losing their culture.
Ultimately, the Indian government recognized Tibetans as refugees and gave them land. "They are so kind. We have schools and monasteries. It’s very free and very peaceful in India," Sonam said.
On the other hand, occupied Tibet is clouded in mystery. "Today liquor is free and available everywhere in Tibet. They sell it to the children. Tibetan people have no work. They don’t know the Tibetan language so they cannot learn or practice the religion," Sonam said.
"The Chinese don’t like religion. They needed our land. We have oil, copper, turquoise, and many precious metals in our mountains," he said. "The Chinese took everything from the monasteries, including many statues of gold. The people always talked about freedom, but if someone found out, the Chinese would come in the middle of the night, call them out, and the people would disappear. Some were taken to jail and tortured. The family would be called to watch them being killed. The family also pays for the ropes and bullets. But before the person is killed, he digs his own grave."
"Is this still going on?" we asked.
"It’s hard to get information now. We know it happened two years ago," Sonam said.
More than a night on the town, dinner at Tibet Cafe is a gesture of solidarity with the Tibetan people and their belief in compassion, happiness, and love. "Seven is a lucky number," Sonam said, remarking on the seven momos — steamed and fried dumplings of ginger-energized mashed potatoes, peas, and carrots — which highlight the Tibet Cafe Special (served with cabbage-carrot salad and the ubiquitous hot sauce). "Tibetan people use lots of hot sauce," Sonam smiled.
"When we moved to India, we changed a lot," he continued, referring to Tibet Cafe Curry with its yogurt and curry fusion, inspired by Indian cuisine. Very flavorful and mildly seasoned, it’s chock full of fresh vegetables and a hint of ginger, served with either chicken or beef.
Before 1959 or so, Tibetans ate no chicken and very little fish. Seafood was avoided. "Tibetan Buddhists eat meat for strength, not for fun or to be bodybuilders," Sonam told us. "After they eat meat they pray a lot."
Shohok Ngopa is a delightful sauté of yummy potatoes and fresh spinach afloat in a garlic ginger soy sauce. "Do the Tibetans have soy sauce?" we asked. "I think so. The high class buys everything from India and China," he said.
Ping Sha, a very traditional Tibetan dish, is a tasty toss of glimmery bean thread noodles with chicken or beef plus tomato, ginger, onions, and garlic. The Himalayan Katsu — a spicy cold potato salad with cauliflower, peas, and tofu — was flavorful, too. "Is tofu Tibetan?" we asked.
"I saw the tofu in a Tibetan restaurant in New York. I really don’t know exactly what Tibetan food is," Sonam said. "They say yak meat is very nice and very sweet."
Still, Deysee — a comforting dessert of warm, buttery sweet rice with golden raisins — is very Tibetan. "We call it auspicious rice. It is used in ceremonies for big holidays and weddings," Sonam said. Monks eat Batsamaku — a dessert of steamed dough with parmesan cheese — as a whole meal. Other authentic Tibetan dishes include Shaymo (steamed beef dumplings and salad), Shapta (sautéed sliced steak and spinach), Thara (yogurt shake), and Boe Cha, (the traditional churned butter tea).
"I’d like to go to Tibet sometime," Sonam said. Clearly, our guide in our quest for Tibet is looking for Tibet — just like we are — seeking what the Dalai Lama calls a zone of peace. Tibet Cafe, 3913 N. Sheridan Road, Chicago, 773-281-6666; open Tuesday through Friday, 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday, 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. Prices: soups and salads — $2.50 to $2.95; entrées — $5.50 to $8.95; desserts — $3.00; beverages $1.00 to $2.50 (or you can bring your own).