This diner has all the classics: burgers, chili, shepherd’s pie, Ruebens, and gyros. Sounds like food you could order in any Chicago diner, right? Well, not quite. These are items from the Chicago Diner, an all-vegetarian (and mostly vegan) restaurant since 1983. And one that self-taught chef Jo Kaucher touts as the place where meat-eaters like to go to eat healthfully.
My gal pal, Rebecca and I are both quasi-vegetarian (we occasionally eat fish). Generally, we can quickly decide what to order because most menus have few vegetable and fish entrées. Not so at the Chicago Diner. We could eat everything on the menu (we actually giggled with delight). By the third time the waiter came around, we finally committed — ordering soups, main courses, and even dessert. The selections are a vegetarian’s "dream come true" and a skeptical carnivore’s perfect introduction to vegetarian dining.
The Experience
The atmosphere is typically diner-ish. A "Good Food" neon sign glows on an exposed brick wall and a brightly illuminated rotating pastry case filled with tortes, pies, and cheesecakes becomes a tempting focal point. The space is narrow and can seat about 50. There are several tables, booths, and some counter seating. Kaucher says they plan to expand the space sometime soon. I thought the booths were perfect for two but perhaps a little tight for four people when my friend quipped, "Not if they’re all vegetarians!" Well, if they ate a plate here everyday, they’d be mighty big vegetarians; the portions are huge.
Just about everything is made on site, including the seitan, a "wheat meat" product used in many of the dishes. But there are also wheat-free items, many vegan choices, and always an all-organic special. The beverage menu includes freshly squeezed organic juices. But what caught my eye were the organic beer and wine selections.
The Golden Promise organic beer from Scotland carried an amazing scent that was like a blend of vanilla and floral notes (yes, I’m describing a beer). The label described it as a "happy finish" and I couldn’t agree more. Though an ale, it was crisp and light and I’d have been happy to make a meal of this and an appetizer. But then came our entrées: a thick marinated tempeh burger, and a faux Philly steak sandwich piled high with wheat meat and topped with grilled onions and peppers. It was served on a baguette so large that I was entertained watching my petite vegetarian friend try to get her mouth around it. My burger, a bit on the moist side, could be easily squashed down. The breads for both sandwiches were fresh and good.
That said, the potatoes accompanying both dishes were disappointing. They tasted like they had been around for hours and simply warmed over. The miso soup is quite unlike the Japanese version — it’s thicker, has vegetables and was frankly, way too salty even for miso soup. The slaw, however, was an ideal accompaniment as it was light (made with vinegar and oil) and refreshing.
Clean Food Factor
Kaucher says they use more organic produce in summer than in winter for sheer availability reasons. They like to purchase local and organically grown whenever possible. But even in colder months there are a lot of organic produce and grains in their dishes. Be sure to check out the specials for the featured organic plate of the day. Many condiments are organic and they use three types of oil here: soy, olive, and occasionally corn.
Recycling cans and bottles is standard practice as is giving leftovers from catered events to an area boy’s shelter.
Final Word
Entrées range from $8.95 to $10.95, really inexpensive considering the high quality ingredients and the large portions. Despite our over indulgence that night, know that there are lighter choices on the menu. For example, the green majesty salad includes spinach, apple, and pecans with orange vinaigrette; the macrobionic meal, packed with nutrients, includes steamed carrots, kale, grains, sea-slaw and more.
The Chicago Diner celebrates its 20-year anniversary on April 2. It’s the same day that Jo Kaucher and long time business partner, Mickey Hornick will officially announce their engagement. It might be a good time to stop by and see what specials she’s cooked up. There’s free parking on evenings and weekends, a nice bonus in this dense Lakeview neighborhood. For now, you can whet you appetite by perusing their menu online.
The Chicago Diner, 3411 N. Halsted Street, Chicago; 773-935-6696. Lunch, brunch, and dinner: Monday through Friday from 11:00 am to 10:00 pm; Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm.
When not playing in her own kitchen, JoAnn Milivojevic seeks out restaurants that have fun with food. JoAnn’s food, fitness, and travel articles appear in magazines nationwide.