Blend one part Spain-trained chef with a bent toward vegetarianism and three parts bicycle fanatics, and you get the Handlebar Bar and Grill. The owners of this restaurant started the Chicago branch of "Critical Mass," a cycling organization that promotes cycling as a cheap and clean alternative to cars. They opened this friendly neighborhood eatery with similar ethics — offering inexpensive, healthy, and good food.
The Atmosphere
A small dining area, large bar, and open kitchen creates a casual and intimate feel. The dimly lit space seats about 50. With the exception of fertility goddesses and gargoyles on an exposed brick wall, bicycle paraphernalia dominate the decor. The barstools are made from old bike rims and bike tires, and were constructed by a local Chicago artist who makes bike furniture. Above the bar is the "bicycling gladiator," a French poster featuring a femme fatal with bicycle. Near the kitchen hangs a custom-made bicycle fashioned by a local group called the Rat Patrol, a group of cyclists/welders who construct various bikes out of found parts.
Though called a Bar & Grill, the food is anything but typical bar food, the price, however, is happily akin to your basic bar grub. From appetizers to desserts, the menu here is mostly vegetarian with many vegan choices. Entrées start at $7, sandwiches $5, salads $4, and appetizers $3.
The Menu
Appetizers include mushroom caps stuffed with soysage and pine nuts. For the cheese lover, there’s a "free wheelin" cheese plate with four gourmet cheeses, olives, pears, and fresh bread. The Handlebar salad with arugula, pear, walnuts, parmigiano reggiano, and champagne honey mustard dressing was divine. The greens were tender, fresh with a hint of pepper; the pears perfectly sweet, and the dressing was just the right portion. The cheese, however, was scant and the flavor would have better balanced had there been more. One large salad was plenty to share with my dinner pal.
The size of the salad foreshadowed the rest of the items. The BBQ seitan (wheat meat made at the restaurant) was smeared with caramelized onions and a finger-lickin’ good sweet and spicy homemade BBQ sauce. The roll was large enough to serve a family of four (I dare anyone to eat the whole thing and leave their pants buttoned!). The seitan was piled an inch high and I thoroughly enjoyed forking it up with bits of bread. The accompanying shoestring fries were crisp and fresh.
My friend went with the West African ground nut stew made with sweet potato, coconut milk, zucchini (I neither saw nor tasted zucchini) served over brown rice topped with peanuts and toasted coconut. It was an interesting subtle blending of flavors though a bit bland side for my taste. Other entree temptations include grilled catfish tacos, and a Greek style pastry stuffed with eggplant, spinach, and feta cheese.
The full bar offers a selection of beer, wine, and mixed drinks. A margarita we ordered came in a large pilsner glass.
Clean Food Factor
Chef Peter Paetsch strives to use as many organic ingredients as possible. All the soups and sauces are made from scratch, cooking oils are mostly olive, sesame, and oils infused with herbs such as basil. As seasons change so does the menu, specials will feature what’s most fresh and available.
Don’t Miss
Daily specials include risotto cakes ($2) and tortilla españole ($3) — an art form in Spain according to the chef. He says every region in Spain has their particular method and likens the dish to comfort food. It’s made from potatoes soaked in eggs, Paetsch adds red pepper and onions and slow cooks for about an hour. The result is a firm quiche-like dish served on a bed of roasted red pepper sauce.
Final Word
Good food, friendly service, a great price, and no smoking allowed. What’s not to like? The fact that this place is slightly off the beaten Wicker Park path means you can actually park on the same block. And if you cycle in, there’s extra special parking for you right in back. At press time, plans were underway for an outdoor patio. Hop on your bike and check it out.
Handlebar Bar & Grill, 2311 W. North Avenue, Chicago; 773-384-9546. Open daily Monday through Saturday from 4:00 pm to midnight, Sunday from 4:00 pm to 11:00 pm; Sunday Brunch from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm.
JoAnn Milivojevic is a freelance writer whose articles on food, fitness, and travel have appeared in magazines nationwide.