I’ve always thought of Bin 36 as a wine bar with a strong sense of wit. The wine list organizes a taste adventure by destination, such as Spain, Australia or Italy; by grape variety, such as Pinot Noir; or simply by wine director Brian Duncan’s descriptions.
The descriptions can make you almost desperate to taste the “delicious mouthful of dark fruit, berries, bittersweet chocolate and integrated oak and spice.”
OK, so some people may be put off or bewildered by such descriptions, but I find them written with such a sense of fun that I always have a good time reading, and when I see a narrative that says, “there’s a huge yum factor here,” I want at least a sip. And that’s entirely possible, since Bin 36 offers 2 1/2-ounce portions (about $2-$6) in addition to the full-size 6-ounce glass ($5.75-$14). And the “flights” of four different portions ($12-$15) of the 50-wine list are designed to let us taste wines side by side.
Cheese Brings Hand-Crafted Focus
But what made me want to write about Bin 36 is the new cheese program. Regular readers know I’m always seeking the farm-fresh approach to food, not the easiest challenge in an urban center, or in a world where cost containment often results in mass-produced ingredients. All 50 cheeses on the list are made by hand, and come to us from traditional regions such as France and Wisconsin, with a few surprises from places like Louisiana. Executive Chef John Caputo and his team have done their homework. His research even included a road trip to the annual gathering of the American Cheese Society, where he was challenged to choose favorites from 700 cheeses at the grand tasting event.
One don’t-miss is Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Uplands Cheese Co. near Dodgeville, Wis. Cheese-maker Mike Gingrich makes cheese only when the cows are feeding on fresh pasture. During the off-season, when cows feed on hay, Gingrich gives milk away to his neighbors. Chefs often say they can taste the pasture in certain cheeses, what the French call terroir, and Pleasant Ridge Reserve is certainly one of those elite cheeses, which is also considered a farmstead cheese since it’s made at the farm using fresh milk.
The cheese list is organized by price ($2 to $4 per piece) and by milk (goat, cow, sheep and buffalo). Of course, each cheese comes with a wine recommendation. Among the best deals are the cheese flights ($12-$15), a selection of cheeses with figs, walnuts, olives, apple slices and endive leaves. Flights change frequently and might showcase such categories as cheddar, blue cheese or extra-creamy cheeses.
There’s Food On The Menu, Too
If the fancy strikes you, the tavern area serves more casual fare, like a mac and cheese ($10) made with farmstead cheddar from England and homemade bread crumbs. Or choose the pizza of the day ($10), on one occasion made with cremini mushrooms, chorizo sausage and queso fresco. And watch for specials like a falafel platter ($10.95) with hummus and a tomato, cucumber and feta salad. The cellar, the more formal dining area, focuses on traditional dishes, including rotisserie chicken ($17.50), seasonal vegetables ($15) and peppercorn swordfish ($24), plus a classic wedge of iceberg lettuce ($7) topped with housemade ranch dressing. Chef Caputo’s favorite is a braised Colorado lamb shank ($22) cut into medallions, topped with camembert cheese and gratineéd to resemble crème bruleé.
The Final Word
Bin 36 offers a 36-minute lunch for workers who need to get back to their desks, weeknight movies in the loft space (some food-themed, such as the Mexican masterpiece “Like Water For Chocolate”) with a special menu, and a shop that sells wine, cheese, accessories and books. Smoking is allowed in the evenings in the bar, but I’ve never noticed a lot of people lighting up.
Bin 36, 339 N. Dearborn, 312-755-9463. Breakfast Monday through Friday 6:30-10 a.m., Saturday and Sunday 7 a.m.-noon. Lunch Monday through Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tavern dining Monday through Thursday 2 p.m.-midnight, Friday 2 p.m.-2 a.m., Saturday noon–2 a.m., Sunday noon–10 p.m. Cellar dining room opens at 5 p.m. daily until 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 9 p.m. Sunday.
Janine MacLachlan is a freelance writer, cooking school owner and farm groupie who seeks out restaurants that focus on well-raised food. Her Web site is www.rustickitchen.com .