The curried squid starter at West Town Tavern comes with a vibrant salad. Photo: Janine MacLachlan
The curried squid starter at West Town Tavern comes with a vibrant salad. Photo: Janine MacLachlan
West Town Tavern’s Susan Goss is one of those above-and-beyond chefs. She’s at the helm of this successful restaurant (along with husband Drew, who runs the front of the house), which in itself is a more-than-full-time gig, and it’s clear that running a restaurant kitchen is not for the faint hearted. And she’s active in Share Our Strength, an anti-hunger group that leverages the influence of chefs to raise funds for local groups like the Greater Chicago Food Depository and the Illinois Hunger Coalition. She also makes time to teach nutrition classes to women at risk of hunger in her own neighborhood. Given a choice, I like to give my dining dollar to chefs like that. The really good news: Goss can cook, too.
The Gosses shuttered the popular Zinfandel several years ago, but the spirit of celebration has transferred well to West Town Tavern. In the Zinfandel days, I once popped into the kitchen to ask a question about a dish, which some might call nosy, but I like to think of as intellectually curious. I was surprised and impressed at the calm capability of the staff, rather than the barely-managed chaos that prevails in some kitchens. I understand Goss is fluent in Spanish, which breaks down a big communication barrier, and is meticulous about staff training.
It’s All About the Details
The room is cozy with warm wood and exposed brick, floor to ceiling curtains, and a nice long bar, perfect for that early dinner after work or light meal after a show. When you sit down, you’re greeted with some crusty bread and a fluffy butter whipped with lemon zest, tarragon and mustard seed. I was never more overjoyed to remember that we’re finished with low carb and low fat and can enjoy delicious food again.
About 40 wines are divided between new and old world, with most selections available by the glass, again, a neighborhood-friendly option for those who might want just a little something with a glass of wine during the week when a full bottle might result in next-morning fogginess. While I’ve heard that some sniff about having to flip the list back and forth to get a full picture of the white or reds, I find a slow steady meander gets me a beverage to wet my whistle, and I have to say any tasting note including “bread dough” gets me to sit up and try a glass — the fact that it comes in the form of bubbly is a great bonus. There’s also a German Pinot Noir worth having with something mushroomy, and since the movie “Sideways” has made Pinot the hero varietal these days, I’m sure they’re selling cases of it.
The food at West Town Tavern makes me think of comfort food elevated several notches. For starters, don’t miss the tavern antipasto ($8.50). Goat cheese rimmed with fresh rosemary and drizzled with olive oil, braised white bean puree, oven-cured tomatoes, marinated olives, prosciutto and toasts make the perfect little sampler. It’s perfect to share, but I made a mental note to come back and linger on my own at the bar some evening. And the curried calamari ($8.25) was no slouch, nice and crispy, with the subtle heat of curry set off by a refreshing salad.
The eclectic menu has something for everyone, particularly meat lovers, who can choose from beef, lamb, pork, chicken and duck, as well as the signature Zinfandel-braised pot roast ($19.25) with garlic mashed potatoes and black vinegar sauce. Vegetarians will need to stick to the starters, and ask for an entrée-size portion of the gnocchi with asparagus, soybeans and pesto ($7.75 for an appetizer portion). Or ask for a customized version of the pasta, which is cheerfully granted. On one visit the pasta was pappardelle, a wide flat noodle, with turkey meatballs ($16.75), but the kitchen added more spring mushrooms to accommodate my request. And the seafood is a good choice; in one case a Great Lakes whitefish special ($17.75) served with Israeli couscous, an oversized bead-like pasta, with tomato broth and asparagus. My other favorite is the potato-crusted tilapia ($17.75) with rice pilaf and shaved fennel salad.
And Save Room …
Goss is the pastry chef as well, and the desserts reflect that same simple approach with that little extra something. The house-made ice creams ($4.95), for example, came in chocolately luscious and creamy splendor, with an orange essence cookie that was a sensory experience all on its own. It was a tough decision between the ice cream and the lemon chess pie ($5.50), a smooth tart filling in a shortbread crust, and the bourbon pecan pie ($5.75) came out of the kitchen more than once. And don’t miss the campfire s’mores ($5.75), made in classic Goss style with house-made marshmallows and graham crackers, along with rich bittersweet chocolate — you feel nostalgic and indulgent at the same time.
The Final Word
As with so many experiences, the server makes all the difference. Staff at West Town Tavern must be hired for their enthusiasm for the subject matter, because three times I’ve had servers who are knowledgeable about the wine list beyond a simple recitation of tasting attributes (although the tasting notes are fun to read), and boast about the kitchen staff, and wax poetic about the food. It just makes it more fun to have someone in your corner who wants you to have a lovely experience.
West Town Tavern, 1329 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago, 312-666-6175. Monday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Closed Sunday. Smoking at the bar.
Janine MacLachlan is a freelance writer, cooking school owner, and farm groupie who seeks out restaurants that focus on well-raised food. Her website is www.rustickitchen.com.