Photo: Maggie Faircloth
Photo: Maggie Faircloth
I spent three weeks in Italy last fall, eating and drinking my way from the Amalfi coast through Tuscany to Venice. Since I’ve been back, I’ve been searching for good Italian pizza, real Italian pizza, and have been disappointed with each attempt — until now. Who knew I’d find the most well-executed rendition of Italian pizza in Evanston, IL, but that is exactly what I found recently at Union Pizzeria.
Pizza dough, while seemingly an inconsequential piece to the whole pie, is actually a critical component. Union’s pizza dough was soft in the middle, crispy on the edges and thick enough be able to hold it’s toppings, but thin enough to let the diner appreciate the chosen ingredients. When I encounter a crust that’s too doughy, too crispy, too flavorful, I imagine hearing a loud scream, “Hey! Check me out! I’m fantastic crust, right?” Not here. The crust was a strong supporting role to the simple and subtle layered flavors of mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce and sausage.
I ate alone that night, and as I slid into the banquette, I realized I was flanked by two couples who were a food writer’s dream — well, for a food writer on a tight deadline and feeling abnormally uncreative. As soon as I was situated, I heard, “Mmm … this is really good!” on one side and “This place is fantastic! I think the idea here is that they try to do a few things well” on the other. (I later spoke to both couples but have chosen to keep their identities private since they won’t have a chance to approve these quotes prior to printing.) I realized that my work was being conducted for me by my unexpected dining partners, so I sat back and absorbed the comments.
It’s one thing to hear what the owner thinks of the establishment, but there is no better opinion that a neutral source. One couple was discussing the “great balance” in their mushroom pizza with bechamel, fontina and sage and how it went so very well with the deep, earthy tones of the wine. The other couple chose the special of the day, the duck ragu and creamy polenta as well as the meatballs with veal, pork, ricotta and tomato jam, which they said was very good, although possibly a touch too sweet. “Like when my mom used to put raisins in the meatballs,” said one diner. That was a very clear image, sharp enough to immediately stir me away from the meatballs. Though it should be noted that the couple later agreed that the dish was really quite good.
Union not only serves the best pizza I’ve had since my trip to Italy, but the entire savory and dessert menus are exceptional. I chose a simple chopped salad which the menu markets as “cucumber, tomato and Maytag blue cheese.” But in the salad was also a great assortment of wild greens that made it jump from simply healthy and nice tasting to, as my charming step mother would say in her lovely Texas drawl, “It’s goohr-MAY!” For dessert I chose the polenta and corn meal pound cake, which arrived at the table with a generous dollop of fresh whipped cream and peaches. The cornmeal crust created a snappy crunch, and the polenta body was light but moist and creamy.
The entire experience was great for me, and apparently for everyone whom I was in earshot. I’ve been raving about the food at Union to my friends since I dined there, and I’m eager to return.
Union Pizzeria, 1245 Chicago Ave., Evanston, IL; 847- 475-2400
Tanya Fritz is a professionally trained chef, oenophile, slow-food fanatic and yoga enthusiast.